"What was behind all this attention to structure and process? The goal was to create an intellectual space – something we might think of as a beautiful bustan

• in which there would be no possibility of suffocation from the dying weeds of dogma, whether professional or ideological;

• where the flowers of articulation and challenging ideas could grow without restraint;

• where the new plants of creativity and risk-taking could blossom in the full light of day;

• where beauty would be seen in the articulation of difference and for seeking diverse solutions in the form of plants of different sizes, shapes, textures and colours, presented in new configurations and arrangements;

• a bustan whose glory would stem from the value and legitimacy of the pluralism of the infinite manifestations of culture in the human community."
  
  -Aga Khan Award for Architecture in Aleppo Syria, 2001.

Upon touring the old city of Aleppo, we passed by 11-12th century Ayyubid mosques and madrasas. Something that caught my attraction, especially with my interest in health, was a mental institute/hospital. Apparently, one of the most popular therapies used at this hospital was the use of sunlight and water to help patients. These therapies are something that are just being recognized today! We also passed by the Al Shibani school, which was once a Christian school and Church but later became a Muslim School. After many years of neglect, the school has now been developed into a museum and is funded by Aga Khan Trust for Culture.

A proposal has been passed in Old Aleppo by AKTC to develop a park, Bab Qinnasrin. Bab Qinnasrin is actually one of the gates of Aleppo. Where the park will be located is currently an area where unplanned building has taken place. When the park was initially proposed, the long term sustainability was questioned especially when considering how the people will react to the park, who will use it and if it would be beneficial to the people of Aleppo. That was when Al-Azhar park in Cairo, Egypt was explored and how it has been sustained thus far. In March 16, 2006, Hazar Imam came to Aleppo and offically proposed the idea of a park similiar to Al-Azhar park in the old city of Aleppo. Goals of this park was established: 1) it should be part of a much larger organization of society and of economy and 2) the park should not be an "alien" but instead should "go well" with the community. The planning of the park is currently underway. The construction of the park includes improvements in surrounding structures: 1) removal of illegal structures, 2) reconstruction of modern buildings using traditional methods, 3) removal of modern finishes, and 4) cleaning stone massonary walls.  A study was conducted to address the problems of technical infrastructure, paving of streets and sidewalks, architectural details, as well as the network of lighting and road signs and information systems. The study was done in collaboration with the people of Aleppo. People were encouraged to voice their concerns or comments to AKTC so the park and surrounding infrastructure could reflect their view and their way of life. This is an example of what Hazar Imam refers to "intellectual humility"-to be able to listen to people. As we were going over the proposals and planning of the park, stricking similiarities between the park in Cairo and this park were highlighted. The area around the parks include historical monuments, a great mosque, old city streets, madrasas, and presence of a historical wall. Both have plant and wate themes, face a historical citadel and will need the skills and resources of local people for its planning, construction and maintenance. Coincedently, the site where the park in Aleppo will be built is a neglected garbage dump-similiar to the Al-Azhar park. 

We then take a tour of the Citadel of Aleppo. We were given a tour by the Project Manager for this citadel, who is an employee of Aga Khan Trust for Culture. The castle has been designated as a World Heritage Site in 1986 by UNESCO. To better appreciate the citadel, I will provide you with some historical information.

The citadel dates back to the 3rd millenium B.C. This shows that the citadel has always been occupied since the ancient times. In 323 B.C, Alexander the Great conquered Syria and came into power. It is believed that temple may have been built on the site of the citadel but no archelogical evidence has been found thus far. When the Romans came into power, the construction of the citadel began around the area north of the Great Mosque. The Abraham sanctuary on the citadel is believed to have been constructed during the Byzantine period. The citadel served as a military base when the Persian King Khosro I captured the city in 540. The Aleppines fled to the citadel because they could not meet the demands of the King. Upon hearing this, the Persian King became angry and burnt the city to the ground. It was the Byzantine emperor who rebuilt the city walls as well as a number of city buildings and a cathedral. 

The citadel was re-built when the Ayyubids came into power during the 10th Century. Aleppo became a rich and beautiful city with educated inhabitants. Under Nur al-din, the city and citadel walls were reinforced as well as the great Mosque, the souk, military installments, houses, buildings, cisterns, and water systems.  The most amazing constructive effort was the Great Mosque with its towering 21m high minaret. The minerat played both a relgious and military role. A complex defense mode was developed in the sequence of movement into the citadel. Invaders would have to penetrate 3 iron doors and change direction 6 times through a series of 90 degree abrupt turns while being subjected to hot liquids being poured through the slit openings on the upper forms. These strategies made the Citadel of Aleppo the hardest fort to conquer. When Salahadin came into power, the citadel was rebuilt again and became one of the most outstanding building of its time. When the Mongols invaded Syria during the 13th century, most of the city and the citadel was heavily destroyed. It was the Mamluks who had stopped the expansion by the Mongols in 1260. Reconstruction work of the citadel took several years under the guidance of Mamluki power. New suburbs were developed outside the walls along the caravan routes. Existing suburbs were extended with mosques, other religous buildings, schools and hospitals. The large reception hall on top of the Ayyubid entrance was restored as well. In addition, the city walls were extended and restored. During Ottoman rule in the 16th century, the military role of the Citadel as a defense fortress slowly diminished. Souks, hamams and mosques were built around the citadel. The elite Ottoman troops had their barracks and houses at the top and center of the citadel. However, the houses soon became occupied by the local population. The throne room was re-built in the late 1970s. The amphitheater was completely renovated in the 1980s with new stone seats to hold summer festivals and concets.

The Citadel of Aleppo forms the center of the city with the city being wrapped around the citadel. The streets and the city's urban form extends outward from the citadel. The Citadel has an elliptical base with a length of 450m and width of 325m. The Citadel is situated 50m above the city. Just like the Citadel of Masyaf, this Citadel is built on a natural limestone hill. It is surrounded by a moat, which was once filled with water to protect against invaders. The view from the top of the citadel was extraordinary. I was shocked to see how congested and crowded the city looked. Buildings were built so close together, which kind of reminded me of my friend's description of Egypt. I also noticed many minerettes erected throughout the city but not as many as Egypt though-The city of minerettes. The air did not feel nor smell so clean either, probably due to recent processes of urbanization.

In 2000, the Aga Khan Trust for Culture's Historic Cities Support Programme initiated a major restoration project for the Citadel of Aleppo. The project consisted of structural preservation to the tower walls and replacing missing stones to the walls and arches. The excavation of a part of the Citadel crown was also part of the project. In 2002, the Trust was involved in the conservation of the Ayyubid palace, restoring the maqarnas portal and the marble floor. Additional work is being focused on the relocation of the Citadel Museum collection, which is currently located in the Ottoman barracks. The barracks will be re-used as a vistors facility, which is situated on the highest edge of the site and provides breath-taking views of the city. Structural work is underway to deal with the erosion of the Citadel slope and improvement to the drainage system in the moat. As part of the urban development project, traffic and pedestrian movement around the citadel was examined. The goal is to reduce vehicle traffic on the Citadel ring street while providing public transportation facilities and parking to enhance pedistrian zone. Plans are in place to renovate the theater. When we went the theater and the barracks were in ruins due to the earthquake and neglect. We received word from the tour guide that once the theater and the museum are renovated and a 'roof-top' cafe is added, the area will allow for cultural dance and music for tourists and locals to enjoy. The tour guide also informed us that the excavation and restoration was a pain-stricking process since most of the citadel was covered with Earth due to the earthquake. Therefore, it was difficult to know what was underneath the actual castle.


"Suffering is a gift. In it is hidden mercy." - Rumi

With Love and Prayers,
-Shazmah

I asked Allah to take away my habit.
Allah said, No.
It is not for me to take away, but for you to give it up.

I asked Allah to make my handicapped child whole.
Allah said, No.
His spirit is whole, his body is only temporary

I asked Allah to grant me patience.
Allah said, No.
Patience is a by-product of tribulations;
it isn't granted, it is learned.

I asked Allah to give me happiness.
Allah said, No.
I give you blessings; Happiness is up to you.

I asked Allah to spare me pain.
Allah said, No.
Suffering draws you apart from worldly cares
and brings you closer to me.

I asked Allah to make my spirit grow.
Allah said, No.
You must grow on your own! ,
but I will prune you to make you fruitful.

I asked Allah for all things that I might enjoy life.
Allah said, No.
I will give you life, so that you may enjoy all things.

I ask Allah to help me LOVE others, as much as He loves me.
Allah said...Ahhhh, finally you have the idea.

Day 6: March 16, 2008 (In Salamiyah and Village of Teladara)

Before I begin, let me just tell you that I had the shock of my life in the middle of the night. I was sleeping so soundly when I was woken up by the morning azaan. I actually got scared because for a few minutes I thought there was someone in my room! My heart was beating out of control as I was searching the room for a man's presence. After a few minutes, I realized my ignorance. I felt really silly, especially since I am not used to being woken up by the azaan in Canada. Once I regained control of my heart I thought.."cool...that was the morning azaan!" What a wonderful experience! I went back to sleep with a smile on my face....

We spent the day learning about AKDN's role in Syria and the challenges/issues they are working on with the Syrian government. This was supplemented by a visit to the village of Teladara to further enhance our understanding of the various challenges discussed below. 
This journal entry is about AKDN and Syria. Please refer to www.akdn.org for more information

AKDN has made a long term commitment with the people of Syria to improve social, economic and cultural development. Some priority areas AKDN is currently working on are: Rural economic development, employment and enterprise development, enhancing quality of social services, strengthening civil society organizations, protecting cultural heritage, and development of sustainable tourism.

Challenges and solutions 

1)  Water Scarcity
This is the biggest problem as there has always been conflict for water with Syria and the surrounding countries. Of Syria's seven aquifers, only two near the Euphrates and coastal areas carry water surplus. Also, traditional methods of growing cotton has led to the eradication of water supplies as huge amounts of water is needed to grow cotton. This has led to limited ground water supply. Extreme temperatures, such as drought and cold, has aggravated the shortage further, which has affected agriculture. Only one third of Syria's landmass of fertile plains, mountains and desert is cultivated. Yet agriculture is the country's largest economic sector and provides a livelihood for one third of its population. AKDN officials kept telling us that we are lucky to have arrived at a time where the lands are lush and green, however, they added that this season only lasts for 3-4 months. Lesson: "dont let looks fool you."

Solutions: The Aga Khan Rural Support Program decided to intervene, upon request from Syrians. A survey was conducted in which the results proved that rural villages had enough farmers but not enough water. AKDN is currently working on improving water management in rural areas. One cannot rely on rain water to grow crops as the condition of water depends on season by season. AKDN's initiatives include building long term awareness of water availability as well as drought resisitant crops, water harvesting, and proper irrigation techniques. The goal is to include programmes that would increase agricultural productivity, diversity income sources and improve rural livelihoods. Water as something farmers have to share is widely encouraged. All these programmes are designed to complement efforts already in place by other international agencies. We visited a farm in a village called Tele-dara, which was owned by a non-ismaili who has received aid from the Aga Khan Rural Support Program. In farms like this, farmers and their family members are taught basic techniques on how to grow crops, which crops to grow during which season and finally, when to sell these crops for maximum profit. The techniques the program teaches are sustainable methods so farmers can continue with their farming when AKDN removes its physical presence. In 2001, only 2 million olive trees were planted. Four years later with the help of AKDN and AKF, 15 million trees were planted! Farmers were taught how to mill, prune, harvest and grow olive trees. Syria is the chief birthplace for olives and is the main export product in Syria. Also, while we were visiting the farm, we noticed that dams were built around the trees at the base so as to conserve water supply. Brilliant!
An important point to mention here is that AKDN Rural Support Program will help any community or farmer regardless of their religious or ethnic background. As long as they demonstrate a need and have the willingness to improve their livelihood, AKDN will provide assistance. This reflects the mandate of AKDN initiatives. 

 2) Unemployment
The unemployment rate in Syria is 30%. The unemployment rate in Syria is growing faster than GDP growth. The lack of jobs is mainly due to the lack of individuals able to communicate in English. 

Solutions: Since Hazar Imam made a farman in Syria recently on the necessity of learning English and continuing education, the jamat has taken a bigger role in securing their future and that of generations to come. As mentioned earlier, the youth have enrolled themselves in educational institutions in Damascus and Aleppo where they are taking a variety of courses to further enhance their development. 
AKDN has initiated credit and business advisory service programs in Hama, Lattakia, Aleppo, Tartous, Damascus, and Sweida in order to create a vibrant economy that encourages entrepreneurship. It is with hope that this type of economy would act as a catalyst by drawing in creative potential of an educated labor force that would further develop services that highlight finance and business development. The AKDN programs mentioned above will assist in developing this human resource base in both rural and urban populations. The program distributes loans for the creation of new enterprises, expansion of existing businesses, and servicing agricultural activities. 

A quick note: Aga Khan Agency for Microfinance (AKAM), operating in both rural and urban settings, help poor people from a variety of cultures and backgrounds to expand their incomes, improve their quality of life and become self-reliant through a variety of programs, services and institutions. (For more information on AKAM, please refer to http://www.akdn.org/microfinance/about.html)

As advised by one of the AKDN microfinance officials while on the farm, AKDN launched its microfinance facilities in Syria in 2003 as the Syria Microcredit Programme (SMP). Working in five provinces of the country, the program aims to stimulate income generation in low income areas as well as promoting small scale agricultural and industrial enterprises. Programs include housing rehabilitation as well as seasonal and commercial loans associated with rural development, creation or expansion of businesses, and tourism initiatives, only to name a few. The program also consists of providing technical assistance, training and other forms of support. With regards to agricultural purposes, loans are used for acquiring machinery, land, livestock, plants, etc. Application for loans depends on a needs-based process regardless of income bracket and repayment varies depends on the type of loans borrowed without interest. Since 2003, more than US $12 million worth of loans have been disbursed in the creation of more than 11,000 new jobs. Since loans are encouraged amongst women so they can participate in agricultural activity, 25% of loan recipients are female. Talks are underway between the Syrian Government and AKDN on the creation of a national Microfinance Institution, the first of its kind, in Syria. Details are being worked out on the development of an institutional and legal framework of a microfinance institution.

3) Increased focus on curative approach in health care rather than preventative
Quality of health care in Syria is being affected by increasingly privatization of health services, low wages for health care staff and weak multidisciplinary services such as nursing, pharmacy and epidemiology. This has led to negative effects especially in rural areas where public resources are already depleted due to increasing demands. There has to be an increased focus on community health, environmental health, and disease prevention in order to sustain a healthy community.

Solutions:  Recently, there has been more focus on educating mothers, rightly so since educating women leads to a healthier household. There also has been increased focus on integrating health and education services for early childhood development. AKDN has been playing an important role in improving the quality of health care in Syria by enhancing community health programmes and nursing education as well as improving the standards of healthcare in Syrian hospitals and health clinics. When we went to the Teledara village, we visited a primary and secondary school, found by Imam Sultan Muhammad Shah. The school now belongs to the government. While in that school, we received a short discussion on Aga Khan Health Services program. There were some community health nurses present as well as some volunteers. Aga Khan Health Services work in collaboration with community-based organizations (ex. health clinics) and Village Development Councils. We were informed that some of the major challenges the health sector is dealing with include: decreased number of mothers breastfeeding newborns, increased number of individuals engaging in tobacco smoking, increased numbers swaddling babies, and lack of or inappropriate use of helmets when riding motorcycles (at least one member in every household owns a motor bike). With increased focus on health promotion through health education for all family members, there has been an increase in the number of women breastfeeding babies up to at least 6 months of age, increased use of helmets, and decreased number of mothers swaddling their babies (swaddling means wrapping babies tightly in blankets, which impairs blood circulation and breathing). Tobacco smoking is still a health issue as at least two people in an household smoke and its a hard addiction to quit.  Collaborative work with the Ministry of Health has led to joint training programmes with the Aga Khan University's School of Nursing, Faculty of Health Services and Department of Community Health. 

4) Lack of quality education services and professionals
Currently, schooling until secondary is free for all Syrians, however, the government has recognized the need to invest further in education from primary to tertiary. Unlike Afghanistan or Tajikistan, Syria has sound institutional infrastructure but it lacks quality professionals in all areas such as education and health.

Solution: The Ministry of Education has developed a new law on private education and now encouraging the development for private schools in Syria. This has opened doors for AKDN, since AKDN is particularly interested in promoting not-for-profit schools. The Ministry of Education and AKDN have already started discussions on the establishment of an Aga Khan Academy in Damascus, which will provide world class education through the International Baccalaureate Curriculum from pre-primary to higher secondary levels. AKDN and the Syrian government are also working together to strengthen teaching capacity through training delivered by the Aga Khan University's Institute for Educational Development (AKU-IED). The program will aim to improve the quality of English language instruction, new pedagogical approaches, technical assistance, and computer-based learning. The Ministry of Education of Syria in conjuction with AKDN has recognized the importance of Early Childhood Development through a holistic approach. Currently, early childhood education in Syria is provided by the state but is so poorly developed that it reaches less than 10% of children. We were fortunate to visit the Aga Khan Education Services for Early Childhood Development. During the presentation we learned that the goals of the program are to: enhance the quality of mental and physical health of Syrian children, supporting healthy habits to raise healthy children, and working with various government organizations to provide a holistic approach to child development. There are four projects underway: 1) volunteerism, where volunteers who have received ECD training train other parents and other caregivers. Caregivers are taught the stages of child development as well as how to interact with children at various stages; 2) community center, which serves up to seven villages in partnership with the government, local communities and Aga Khan Foundation. The goal is to develop discovery and research skills in children; 3) Caregivers, which includes babysitters and nannies, are provided with the opportunity to attend workshops to receive further education on holistic ECD; and finally 4) Parents recieve hands-on, field practice with the purpose of supporting and enhancing positive parenting practices, skills and knowledge. All this is done through the concept of community participation in which the local community and parents are asked to indicate their needs and issues. Since 2004, the numbers of volunteers have increased from 30 to 250 and the number of children the program serves have increased from 270 to 1600. The program started off with serving only 1 village in 2004 but it now works with 36 villages. 

5) Cultural legacy crumbling to dust 
Even with vast amounts of cultural resources at its disposal, the Ministry of Culture and the Department of Antiquites are struggling to protect and manage Syria's cultural heritage due to lack of resources. Syria is fortunate enough to have been blessed with a handful of castles, mosques and citadels dating back to the Crusaders but this historical legacy is slowly fading due to lack of support. 

Solution: Since 2000, AKDN has been working with the Ministry of Culture on projects concerning the restoration of citadels, specifically in Aleppo, Masyaf and Haffeh (in Lattakia). Restoration projects have revolved around the need to improve physical structures of buildings, enhance urban environments, upgrade tourist facilities, and train staff in documentation and rehabilitation in order to maintain sustainability of these projects. Additionally, communities living around the project sites have benefited through improvements made to the urban environment as well as access to income-generating loans in order to improve their livelihoods. AKDN projects, through the Aga Khan Trust for Culture's Historic Cities Support Programme, seek more than restoration and conservation efforts. Rather, It aims to enhance social and economic development of communities involved. These projects should add meaning to individual lives by meeting their contemporary needs and not only provide short term benefits.
It is important to point out that by preserving Syria's rich heritage, there is a potential for income and employment generation through cultural tourism. Why not obtain maximum benefit from Syria's rich and diverse history for tourism development. I will go into further details about the three citadels visited in later entries. 

I hope I have provided you with enough information on the work AKDN is doing in Syria. However, there are a few major points I would like to highlight. First of all, the work that AKDN does not benefit just Ismailis even though it is an Aga Khan institution. Anywhere there is a need for improvement in living conditions of individuals and societies, AKDN steps in. As mentioned in my first journal entry, AKDN works in the poorest regions of the world without giving any regard to religion or ethnicity of the individuals involved. Their work is based on the social conscience of Islam, which teaches individuals that we must honor and provide support to our fellow brothers and sisters by living up to the exalted status as God's vicegerents on Earth. Everyone has the right to sound education, quality health care, appropriate shelter and clothing as well as accumulation of wealth. Therefore, if you are in a position to provide any assistance, then it is your responsibility to do so. Shukar, most of us have been blessed with Divine favours, so why not utilize these favours for the benefit of others. We must all take example from the work of AKDN by fulfilling our social responsibility. After all, isn't service to humanity ultimately service to the Lord Allmighty. 
My intention is not to bore you with a lecture but only to raise your awareness. 

“Indeed, the revelation of Islam - my faith - looks upon freedom from hunger, provision of appropriate shelter and clothing, security against fear for one’s safety, good health, learning and wisdom, and generation of wealth as a blessing to strive for, and to share in the creation of an equitable order of peace and harmony. This explains my own role, as the hereditary Imam - the spiritual leader - of the Shia Ismaili Muslims, in development activities through the agencies of the Aga Khan Development Network, or the AKDN.”
– Mawlana Hazar Imam, Royal Toledo Foundation Award Ceremony, Toledo, Spain, March 2, 2006

With love and prayers,
-Shazmah

Day 5: March 15, 2008

Salamiyah, we bring you the world!

We have been anticipating our arrival in Salamiyah since we left London. Mother of Cairo, we are finally here! Salamiyah is referred to as the Mother of Cairo because Salamiyah was the secret headquarters of the pre-Fatimid Ismaili da'wa. It was from here that our Ismaili Imams sent Ismaili Da'is to propagate and spread the Ismaili teachings while the Imams kept their identity a secret for fear of persecution by the Abbasids. Salamiyah is not only an important pre-Fatimid center but also an important center for Nizari Ismaili sect.

Located in west Syria, Salamiya is an ancient city which was known at the Assyrian and Babylonian time around 3500 BC. Ismaili Muslims emigrated to Salamiay during the Abbasid era due to its good climate and remoteness from the center of power. The famous Ismaili philosophers Ikhwan al-Safa met in Salamiyah to publish their letters in philosophy, science, religion, morality, and spirituality. During the beginning of the 10th century the Qarmatian sect, an off-shoot of the Ismailis,  distroyed Salamiyah in its war against the Egyptian Fatamid Ismaili Caliphate.

As soon as we arrived in Salamiyah, we headed for the council offices. When we reached the council building, we received such a warm welcome by the Salmuni jamat. We seriously felt like royalty. The jamat was lined up from where our bus was parked all the way to the entrance of the building. Each one of them extended their hands out to greet us with beautiful smiles. For your information, Syrian Ismailis respond to 'Ya Ali Madad' with 'Mowlana Ali Madad' which means "may OUR Ali help you." The way they were greeting us was as if we had finally reunited after being away from each other for so long. I was overjoyed! My heart was pounding against my chest. I too felt like I was finally home...home with my family. Home...

When we entered the building, we mingled with the Salmuni jamat over tea and cookies. They asked us where we were from and what we do in our home towns. Since there were mostly youth present, the delegates asked them what courses they were taking in school and inquired about their career aspirations. There was such variety amongst them. Some were taking veterinarian, medicine, zoology, english literature, engineering, and architecture study only to name a few. 

The delegates were informed that while in Salamiyah, we would be staying with host families. Our host families were present here and searching for us. Since each host family had at least one member who was able to speak English, it was the youth that came to this gathering to greet us. My host sister found me after inquiring about me from some of the delegates. She is 22 years old and very beautiful and fair skinned. She is taking courses in architecture at a University in Aleppo and aspires to become a professional tour guide for the various attractions in Syria. Apparently, her and the rest of the youth had taken time off from their schools/universities in order to spend time with us. Many of them study in either Aleppo or Damascus. 

After some mingling, we received welcome addresses by the national council members. They gave us a little historical lesson of Syria and the Ismaili tariqah in Syria. While the council members were presenting to us, I was becoming emotional and could not stop the tears. It hit me that I was actually in the same city that my Imams had settled and worked so hard for the betterment of the worldwide Ismaili Jamat. I remembered a Farman that our present Imam had made during his Nakht Nashini in Tanzania, "I shall devote my life to guiding the community in all the problems which these rapid changes will bring in their wake". How lucky we are to have been guided for generations and generations by the proof of God on Earth. How lucky we are to have an Imam, a father, who loves us unconditionally and works day and night for our well-being. I am again reminded of another speech. This one was made by the LIF chairman, Azim Lakhani, during the homage ceremony on July 11, 2007. He described Hazar Imam as someone who, "does not know the difference between day or night, weekday or weekend." 

After the presentation, we had lunch with the jamat. We were served traditional syrian dishes that are usually prepared during big Ismaili gatherings. One dish is called haresay which is a much milder version of haleem from the indo-pak region. The other dish is the traditional rice pilau with chicken. My favorite was the haresay which I had double (some times triple) servings at each event. 

After the presentation, we walked around town with the salmuni youth. We visited various sites together..walking and laughing with each other. Taking pictures of and with each other. There was a strong sense of brotherhood and sisterhood during this expedition. 

We first went to a muslim hammam, also referred to as Islamic bath. Most hammams in countries under Islamic rule reflect a fusion of primitive Eastern bath tradition with the Roman bathing process.This particular hammam dates back to the Roman and then Byzantine dynasties. It was then restored by the Ayyubids. There are three seperate rooms, each varying in temperature according to the height and shape of the domed roof as well as the floor. The medium-heated room is called the 'tepidarium', while the hot steam room is called the 'caldarium' and the cold room 'frigidarium.' We were told that baths play an important role in Islam due to the emphasis placed on cleaniness, hygiene and good health indicated in the Holy Quran and the Hadiths. Cleanliness is a religious duty that must be performed by the believer as part of his or her ablution before the daily prayers. Hammams also play an important social role within the muslim community. It is a place for individuals to interact and strengthen bonds. Both sexes are able to enjoy the functions of the hammam, but at seperate timmings. Women usually bath during the daylight while men during night time. Our Syrian tour guide (remember the one we met in Damascus), was also with us and she told me that traditionally, hammams play a significant role in marrying people. Women would go to hammams in order to search for suitable wives for their sons. Women were able to take a closer look at the bride to be and select only the best 'physically fit.' This tradition gradually lost popularity as arrange marriages are now a thing in the past.

The second site we visited as a group was Imam Ismail' s Mosque. We had another group session here. Also referred to as Jame’ al-Imam Ismail, there is a shrine located right next to the mosque where our Imams Hazrat Radiyyu Addin Abdullah and Hazrat Taqi Mohamad are buried. This mosque was first a greek temple, which was then transformed into a Roman temple after the Roman conquest and then a Christian parish. It then became a muslim mosque. Some believe that the mosque was named after Imam Ismail (our sixth Imam), even though he had not been to Syria during his Imamat. Others believe that Imam Radiyyu Addin Abdullah is also referred to as Imam Ismail and therefore, the mosque is named after him. Regardless, the mosque served as a hiding spot for our Imams against the fearce Abassids.  There is a tunnel located next to one of the tombs, which is covered by a glass encasing. It is believed that our Imams hid in the tunnel to protect themselves. It was here that I was able to spiritually connect with this historical yet symbolic site. I was saddened to think about our Imams going to such great lengths as hiding in tunnels in order to protect themselves and eventually to protect the Ismaili Tariqah. I could not even imagine what it was like...but I could feel the hope. We sat down and took out our tasbihs, followed by Shukran. 

Later in the afternoon, we visited Masjid-Al-Zahra (named after Bibi Fatima). It is important to point out that Syrians refer to Jamat Khana as Masjid, however, the same principles still apply in that a masjid is a place of worship for only Shia Imami Nizari Ismaili Muslims. When we arrived at Masjid Al-Zahra, we were greeted by an exceptional line of salamuni volunteers dressed in their uniforms. Each lined up to greet each delegate as we entered the building. I was very excited to see the volunteers because I too am a volunteer. It does not matter where you live in the world, the concept of service is so strong in our Ismaili community. In fact, it is an integral part of the ethics of Islam. As part of traditional Syrian hospitality, we were greeted at the top of the stairs by two volunteers who were serving black coffee with no sugar in tiny cups that looked like the cups we drink nyaaz from. I do not like coffee but I accepted the cup out of respect. I noticed everyone drinking the coffee straight so I did the same. Let me just tell you it was very hot and very bitter but I just smiled and nodded!
Once we were inside the building, we received a little presentation by the national and local council. 

There are approximately 18,881,361 inhabitants in all of Syria. Of that 91, 318 inhabitants live in Salamiyah. 70% of the population in Salamiyah are Ismailis with 19 Masjids/JK in total. The local council has various boards: Youth and Sports, health, womens, social welfare, ITREB, and conceliation and arbitration. There are approximately 270 members in council, of which 35 female representatives. 

Directly across the Masjid is the mausoleum of Hazar Imam's father, Prince Aly Khan. The salamuni community was and still is extremely attached to Prince Aly Khan. They refer to him as Prince Aly Salomone Khan. Prince Aly Khan also loved the Salamuni jamat very much. So much so that he had expressed to be buried in Salamiyah among the Syrian Ismailis. Prince Aly Khan passed away on May 12, 1960. He was first buried on the grounds of chateau de l'Horizon, his home in the south of France, where it was intended that he would remain until a mausoleum was built for him in Syria. His remains were removed to Damascus, Syria on July 11, 1972, and he was re-entered in Salamiyah, Syria. On Monday, July 12, 1972 the final burial ceremony of late Prince Aly S. Khan took place in Salamiyah, Syria according to his will. The mousoleum was covered with pictures of Prince Aly Khan and Hazar Imam. There were also pictures of Imam Sultan Muhammad Shah with Prince Aly Khan and Hazar Imam. In the corner of the mosoleum, there was a beautiful chair. It was on this chair, rather throne, that Hazar Imam sat on in 1957 when he received Bay'at from the Syrian jamat. Again, an emotional moment for the delegates. I remember walking around the mausoleum very slowly, carefully looking at all the pictures on the wall and around the tomb, analyzing all the crooks and crannies so that this moment would always stay in my memory...and it did... We sat down and said our Salwaats and Shukran. After a moment of contemplation, we were given a green ribbon as a symbol for peace. We tied the ribbon around our wrists. 

In the evening, we went home with our host families to change and get ready for evening prayers. Since I had suitcases in my hands, my host father picked up my sister and I. Their house from the outside looked plain and simple. Houses around that neighborhood looked pretty much the same. My host mother had set up a clothing shop on the first floor of their house. She greeted me with a really big, warm hug. She was smiling and her eyes were shinning! She told me, "you are my daughter." The tears were coming....
I was then taken upstairs to see the rest of the house. If the house looked simple from the outside then it was by no means simple from the inside. It was absolutely  beautiful! The windows were huge and the curtains were deep burgundy. The walls had pictures of Hazar Imam and various Middle Eastern antiques. The shelves also had pictures of the family. I was taken to my room where I would be sleeping for two nights. The walls had mickey mouse pictures and pictures of Middle Eastern actors and singers. Right in the middle of the room was a furnace. I was then advised that I should freshen up as we would be leaving for evening prayers soon. Back home in Canada I am used to showers and bath tubs as with the rest of the delegates from the 'western world.' There was a bath tub in my host family's house but it was not functioning well. In fact, there was laundry laid out in the bath tub. Now here is the challenge: how can I take a proper shower? There was a small basin in the corner of the bathroom with a water tap right above it. Right beside the basin was a stool. I sat on the stool, filled the basin with water, and washed myself. It took me 15minutes to half an hour to wash my whole body limb by limb. When I was done, I dumped the water in the basin into the toilet and flushed it. It was "ghetto." However, I enjoyed that experience thoroughly. When does one get a chance to get creative like that! 

Once ready, my sister and I were dropped of to Masjid Al-Zahra for evening prayers. The prayer hall was simple yet elegant with a beautiful chandelier in the middle. The services conducted were similiar to what we witnessed in Damascus. However, here the jamat asked the delegates to sit in front behind the podiums or what we call 'paats.' Most of the female delegates covered their heads with their shawls or scarfs. I had covered my head initially during services in Damascus but I had since stopped. Not all women had their heads covered except for the elderly. I decided not to because I never do in Canada and felt uncomfortable to cover only while here. It is not me. However, I was dressed modestly and was well covered. Once the services were over the jamat had gathered in a circle, both men and women, to greet us and officially welcome us. The delegates greeted each member one by one. Every single one had smiles on their faces and warmth in their eyes. Some older ladies were hugging us tightly and kissing us. They were treating us as royalty. After about 30 'Ya Ali madads-Mowlana Ali Madads' I was feeling very emotional. I was finding it harder and harder to hold back tears. As I looked deep into everyone's eyes, my eyes fell on a pair of eyes belonging to a very elderly lady. I cannot describe to you what I saw in those eyes. Words fail me. All I can tell you is that I was overcome with a sense of peace and immense love for this lady and love for everyone around me. All she said was, "welcome" and she had me. Thank God I was almost done because I just lost it. While everyone had left to participate in the social gathering that the Salamuni jamat had arranged for the delegates at a nearby hall, I stayed behind and sat by myself. I wanted to be alone...I needed to be alone. There were too many emotions inside of me and they had to come out. For 15 minutes I just sat and let them out one by one...

Once I calmed down, I joined the party. The elder members put on a fashion show for us displaying their traditional outfits. The youth also joined them, fashioning off their traditional outfits. The MC explained each outfit to us. This was then followed by?? You guessed it, the Dabke! The dabke has come to be my favorite dance. The meaning of dabke in Arabic means, "stomping of the feet." This is exactly what this dance is about, stomping of the feet as well as jumping and kicking. It is a traditional folk dance that goes back generations. It is the national dance of Lebanon, Palestine, Syria and Jordon. it is a dance of community and often performed at weddings and other joyous occasions. The individual that leads the dabke, the dabke leader, is supposed to be like a tree with arms in the air and feet that stomp the ground in rhythm to emphasize the connection with the land. The leader is usually allowed to improvise on the type of dabke being danced and is usually twirling a handkerchief or string of beads known as a masbha, which is similar to a rosary. The rest of the dancers must keep to the rhythm. There are six different types of dabke that the Syrians dance to. I wanted to participate badly and couldn't sit any longer. Therefore, I grabbed A.M and we joined in with the Syrian youth. It was difficult at first trying to learn the STEPs but the Salamuni jamat were excellent teachers. Soon the rest of the delegates and the salamuni youth joined us. We had so much fun! We tried different moves, yelping, jumping, you name it! We even taught them how to play rasra (traditional folk dance of indo-pak region). It was great to see a variety of cultures mixing together and having a good time. How often does this happen? No matter where we came from, under Islam and as part of the human race, we are brothers and sisters. 

Later that night my host sister, her friend, my co-delegate (S.J) and I walked home together. We stopped by a sweet shop owned by an Ismaili to buy some Bakhlava. Mmm.

"If we have no peace, it is because we have forgotten that we belong to each other."- Mother Theresa

With love and prayers,
-Shazmah

Day 1: Arrival in London, UK. (March 11 2008)
 
After a long flight from Vancouver, we finally reached London, UK. During the flight from Vancouver to Toronto, I noticed a man who appeared to be Ismaili. I did not approach him as I was not sure and hence, afraid to be considered "wierd." However, as we were waiting to board our Toronto to London flight, I realized that the Ismaili man was a fellow delegate who I had just befriended on facebook. I approached him and said, "You must be O.R." He looked at me with a confused look and said, "yess." I introduced myself and reported that I was also part of the Heritage Discovery Program. This was the beginning of our road to friendship. By the way, Omar and I were on the same Syria/East Africa route.
 
Upon arrival to London Heathrow airport at 10ish am, O.R. and I were greeted by a group of Ismailis holding the "Heritage Discovery Program" Banner. This was my first time being greeted in such a manner. These individuals had been at the airport all day greeting delegates from all around the world. They were not aware of the mandate of the program but they had volunteered their time simply because they were asked to only two days prior. I was reminded of a story I was told by a fellow Ismaili sister from Edmonton, Alberta during the Canadian Deedar (visit) by His Highness the Aga Khan (Imam of Ismaili Muslims) in 2005. She expressed to me that she felt like a member of a Royal Family when she was greeted at the Vancouver International Airport by a group of Ismailis welcoming individuals from out of town with smiles and laughter. She stated that they would go out of their way to provide for their needs, example food, water, accommodation, etc. Finally she said, "It reallly did feel like Deedar." As I was standing at Heathrow airport that day, I felt the same way...It felt like Deedar. It was a feeling of immense joy and happiness. One that sent goosebumps down my spine. I too felt like a member from a royal family. However, this would not be the first time I felt or was treated that way during my trip.
 
We were escorted to the Holiday Inn at Chessington where we met delegates who had already arrived, some as early as 4am. Since we could not check into our rooms until after 2pm, (by the way, it was already 11 am) we introduced ourselves and made small talk with each other. I met a medical student from New York (whom I now refer to as "the New Yorker!"), two from Nairobi, one from Vancouver and a man originally from Afghanistan. The man from Afghanistan, E.H., and I talked for quit a bit, mostly about his life back home and the hardships he had to face. As he was talking to me, I could see the past in his eyes but I also saw hope. It is true what they say, "your eyes are the windows to your soul." I will not go into his past but I will mention that he is now married and living in Virginia. I soon realized that E.H. was also part of my Syria/East Africa route. Again, a new bond has been formed.
 
As we waited and waited until 2pm rolled around, we greeted more delegates as they arrived. Mind you we were extremely tired and just wanted to snooze for a bit. Again, we met individuals from Ontario, Australia, Tajikistan, Syria, and the list goes on. I acquainted myself with E.J from California (originally from Saudi) and S.J from Bangladesh.  Coincidentally, these two would also be part of my route.
 
It was finally 1pm and lunch was served. There were more introductions and small talk being made. Lucky for me I had my content facilitator who would be traveling with me, A.H., sitting at my table. This gave us a chance to talk and he prepared us for what was yet to come.
 
After lunch we were able to check into our rooms in order to get some well needed rest. After an hour of sleep, I received a wonderful surprise. A special someone (F.A.) had traveled for an hour from Central London to see me before I departed the next day. We talked in the lobby for a short period of time. As short as it may be, it was well needed. After wishing me good luck and offering me some travel advice, he went back to his residence traveling for yet another hour. Thank you for everything you do for me.
 
My roommate (F.M.) came a little later in the evening since she lives in UK. As we were getting ready for evening prayers, we talked about ourselves: our home, careers, education, etc. And guess what?! You guessed it, she was also part of my route. We were lucky because we were all supposed to have roommates who were not on the same route as us.
 
During evening prayers, we had individuals from Syria, Tajistan, North America, Pakistan and Africa reciting Du'a, Tasbih, Farman, Nasheed (a form of Qasida) and ginan as they do in their countries and in their cultural attire. I was amazed to realize what a multicultural and multilingual bunch we were. This was definitelydiversity in the making. However, we were and continue to be united by a single thread: Ismailis who follow the Imam of the Time.
 
After prayers, we had dinner and then introductions by the Chair of the program. We were also humbly graced by the Chair of the LIF, Azim Lakhani. For those who are unable to recall, Mr. Lakhani paid the Homage to our Imam during the July 11 2007 Ceremony at Aglemont on behalf of the Ismaili Community. He informed us that out of 500 applicants, only 125 were chosen. 1000 individuals had expressed interest in the program. He highlighted the main objectives of the Golden Jubilee and how this program ties in with these objectives: 1) Understanding the Institution of the Imamat in modern terminology and 2) Raising awareness of Imamat Institutions. He expressed to us that even though we were fortunate to be have been chosen, we have a huge task ahead of us. We have the responsibility to raise awareness about the Imamat and His Institutions to not only the Ismaili community but to our extended communities that we are a part of. He offered advice for our success and his humble prayers. He shared with us his travels to Syria and understood the excitement we must be feeling. Finally, one of our tajik brothers presented the traditional topi (hat) with "Golden Jubilee" written on it in glitter to Mr. Lakhani and placed it on his head to symbolize the bond of brotherhood and sisterhood that we share (above picture). Mr. Lakhani expressed his deepest gratitude and best wishes. 

As I lay in bed, a rush of thoughts enter my mind. Mr. Lakhani had said, "This trip will allow you to bring history to life. It will bring the past, the present and the future into light." How does history do this? During my primary and secondary school years I always thought history was just facts, dates and people. Boring stuff! But history is more than dates and people. Its about learing from the past so we can improve the lives for the generations to come. Its about learning from our mistakes. Its about learning what worked best then and maybe reintroducing the same techniques and skills to our modern world in order to preserve that history and build on it. Its about valuing our heritage. 

I leave you with something to chew on: "Since there is this general feeling that something has been lost, it is critical to look back in order to look forward."-His Highness the Aga Khan at At the 2001 Award Presentation Ceremony of The Aga Khan Award For Architecture
The Citadel, Aleppo, Syria, 6 November 2001


After the presentation, the delegetes retired for the night.

"To become truly great, one has to stand with people, not above them." - Charles de Montesquieu

With Love and Peace,
-Shazmah

In the name of God, the Compassionate, the Merciful.

My fellow readers and collegues,

A month ago I embarked on my first international expedition to Syria and East Africa through the Heritage Discovery Program (HDP). Let me first give you some details about this program.

The Heritage Discovery Program is an international Golden Jubilee initiative which was developed under the guidance of His Highness the Aga Khan, Imam of the Shia Ismaili Muslims. Its objectives are to facilitate travel and learning by exploring the Ismaili Jamat's rich and diverse heritage and traditions. This three week long physical and intellectual journey brought young Ismailis together from all parts of the world to nurture the concept of frontierless brotherhood (and sisterhood!). Five sites were chosen: India, Egypt, Syria, East Africa, and Tajikstan with one day in Afghanistan. Five routes were comprised depending on which site a group will visit first: 1) Egypt and India, 2) India and Egypt, 3) Syria and East Africa, 5) East Africa and Syria, and 6) Tajikistan. Mine was the third route. 

During our travels we visited various AKDN (Aga Khan Development Network) project sites in order to develop a deeper understanding of the Institution of Imamat as well as its historical and contemporary initiatives. All the umbrellas under the AKDN were explored such as: Aga Khan Education Services, Aga Khan Health Services, and Aga Khan Trust for Culture, only to name a few. I will provide more details on these programs as I continue with my travel log. The delegates (as we are referred to), also visited diverse Muslim settings and places of worship such as mosques and shrines or mausoleums of revered sages and saints.  

In order to provide you with an understanding of the AKDN and its work, here is an excerpt from an essay which I wrote when applying for this program:

"Under the guidance and leadership of His Highness, the Aga Khan Development Network (AKDN) upholds the social conscience of Islam by improving the living conditions and providing opportunities to individuals living in specific regions of the developing world regardless of gender, ethnicity, social class, and religious affiliation....The network, through its various branches, aims to create solutions to contemporary problems such as alleviation of disease and poverty as well as to relieve the society of ignorance through education."

The Aga Khan Develop Network, a non-denominational and not-for-profit organization, was founded and is guided by His Highness the Aga Khan. It aims to bring together a number of development agencies, institutions, and programmes in order to equip individuals with the skills and tools to achieve a level of self reliance through capacity building. This will empower them to take on the responsibility to improve their own livelihoods and that of their communities. The institution's main sources of support consists of the Ismaili community with its tradition of philanthropy, voluntary service and the leadership and material resources of the Imam and Imamat. 

Through the next several journal entries, I will share with you my experiences and the vast amount of knowledge I gained during my travels. In addition, I will share with you my reflections and emotional state as I visited certain sites. We were given journals to keep track of our experiences. This journal is a duplication of my written thoughts while on the road as well as some after thoughts.  Please feel free to share site information and projects with your families, friends and wider communities. The whole purpose of this program is to create awareness. I welcome all comments and questions that you may have. A warning to my readers, this journal is very detailed and cannot be read in just one go.

The name of this journal is Safarnama, which means "books of travels." Some of you are already aware of this but it was the great Person poet, philosopher, Ismaili scholar and traveler, Nasir Khusraw, that compiled a written travel journal, also termed Safarnama, during the 11th century. It is an account of Nasir Khusraw's seven year journey through the Islamic world. Hence, I felt this name was fitting for my journal. However, mine is not a seven year journey but instead a journey that will last a lifetime. I hope that you will enjoy this journey as much as I did. 

"O, mankind! Verily We have created you male and female, and have made you nations and tribes that ye may know each other." (Quran, XLIX: 13). 

With Love and Peace,
-Shazmah